CLOPs: Clothing Operators for Fashion

[momposina]

I'm going to launch a clothing brand developed in Houdini. CLOPs are my tools for drawing things you can wear - I'd like to share my journey here.

[momposina]

The process began with creating a procedural drape for a skirt. The model consisted of two pattern pieces: one for the front and one for the back. Each piece included a side seam and a guide curve at the waist to ensure the skirt positioned correctly on the mannequin. One key goal was to establish a PDG network, allowing for the visualization of numerous material configurations and gaining a better sense of how the skirt would naturally settle.

Edited February 11 by momposina

[momposina]

Following the initial setup - here is a test for an early idea of integrating the wearer into the production of a bespoke garment. The process begins by capturing the wearer's signature and using it to generate an image of values that define the fabric of the dress through a custom GAN.

A PDG network was built to generate the training data for the GAN. The output image corresponds to the edge length distribution in the cloth - this metadata is applied via UVs. Now even by keeping the pattern the same, every new wearer can individualise and alter the drape via their signature. This was quite an exciting moment! A neat way to utilise both AI and concepts from vision. To be developed...

[momposina]

Setting up a PDG network to test variations in cloth stretch and bend stiffness. At this point I hadn't realised the scale at which stiffness was multiplied, leading to some wonky results. These large-resolution mosaic images have great qualities regardless.

[momposina]

Moving onto tops, the pattern-maker was developed to give the option for symmetry. Two front pieces + two back pieces. Lots of procedural naming of left and right and front and back but ultimately a very useful feature! Asymmetry to come, and I love the possibility of seams down the middle. Lookdev journey also developing - need to design bodies.

[momposina]

Iterative testing of tops, pattern-to-drape. One reason for this is to get a 'feel' of how patterns work (especially as outsiders to fashion or clothing design education). Perhaps this can become a big library one day.

[momposina]

Similarly, two part symmetrical patterns trying to figure out trousers. These are really quite tricky, in particular having more give in the crotch area whilst still having to wrap around the thigh.

[momposina]

A couple of images of a torso concept in progress. Imagining this piece to be a solid leather surface. The skirt is inspired by a McQueen show where some of the dresses were made of hair. I enjoy the idea of converting this into 'digital' filaments, radiating and absorbing light. The figure here is also developed - I think its character helps direct the overall vision of the piece. 
 

[momposina]

Viewport screenshots of the torso in progress. The pattern is testing a rather tight silhouette, with a lot of control around the appendages of the body. I like the line around the neck, the hem by the waist and the articulation of the side and middle seams.